Merry Christmas everyone! Christmas day marks the first of the 12 days of Christmas. I’ll admit, I’ve never quite understood the gifts listed in the “Twelve Days of Christmas” song. Twelve drummers drumming and eleven pipers piping? Sounds like a lot of noise unless you’re forming a marching band. That first gift though – a partridge in a pear tree – well maybe just the pear tree. Sounds like a great gift to me!
I’ve written about giving trees as Christmas gifts before. I suppose I’m somewhat biased when it comes to plants, and trees in particular, making perfect gifts. Fruit trees are excellent presents to receive, as they are the gift that keeps on giving. Who wouldn’t take that over a fat Christmas bonus?
We kicked this week off with the first day of winter on Sunday. Many assume the winter and holiday season mean a break from the garden. This is far from the truth. Winter is prime time for planting those wonderful trees received as Christmas presents, and if you weren’t gifted one, now is the time treat yourself and plant one or 12 in your yard – as space allows.
While Mother Nature can be unpredictable with our winter weather – who remembers 8 degrees on December 23, 1989? We generally fall into a pattern of cooler and wetter weather during these months. This provides a more conducive environment for newly planted, hardy trees and shrubs to become acclimated to their new settings. In turn, the plants have longer to become established in the landscape before the heat of late spring and summer set in.
Proper planting techniques are just as important as proper planting time. Trees and shrubs can be a costly investment. To get them off to a growing start you first need to select the right location. Give your tree or shrub room to grow. Pay attention to the mature size of the plant and plan accordingly. Also, note the location of utility lines before planting.
Once you have identified the right location, it is time to start digging. Dig the planting hole three times as wide as the pot or root ball and no deeper than the root ball. Gently remove the tree from its container and remove any girdling roots. These are the roots that circle the outside of the root ball. If left intact, they can continue to grow in a circle and kill the tree. Make cuts with a clean, sharp knife.
Next, place the tree in the hole, making sure it is straight and the base of the trunk is at or just about the soil line, then backfill with the original soil, lightly tamping to remove air pockets. Water thoroughly to settle the soil and add two to 3 inches of mulch around the base, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk to avoid rot. Please avoid the urge to pile mulch up around the base of the trunk. You may see this done by landscaping companies, but this is not the correct way to mulch.
Finally, monitor moisture levels and provide support if needed until the tree is established. Even in winter, newly planted trees and shrubs need to be watered if rainfall is not adequate. Generally, one soaking per week is all that is needed if you water slowly and deeply. Stakes used to support trees should be removed after one year.
If you’ve been considering adding a nice shade tree or a delicious pear tree to your yard or perhaps received one as a gift, don’t delay planting it. You’ll need somewhere for your partridge to perch. Be sure to check out the LSU AgCenter website for the native growing guide and the home orchard guide for tree variety recommendations.
